Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
